Largely populated by the Laven tribe, who are thought to number about 30,000, the Bolaven Plateau is dotted with numerous small villages. Traditional houses are suspended on stilts and built with bamboo walls and roofs made from dried grass or leaves, although more modern ones may have tin roofs.
Laven tribe —
Largely populated by the Laven tribe, who are thought to number about 30,000, the Bolaven Plateau is dotted with numerous small villages. Traditional houses are suspended on stilts and built with bamboo walls and roofs made from dried grass or leaves, although more modern ones may have tin roofs.
Daniel Allen Photography
At 120 meters, Tad Fane waterfall (right) is one of the highest in Laos, dropping over a cliff at the plateau's edge. The smaller but arguably more picturesque Tad Yuang (left) is easier to reach, with nearby restaurants and a picnic area.
A plateau's cascades —
At 120 meters, Tad Fane waterfall (right) is one of the highest in Laos, dropping over a cliff at the plateau's edge. The smaller but arguably more picturesque Tad Yuang (left) is easier to reach, with nearby restaurants and a picnic area.
Daniel Allen Photography
The Bolaven Plateau is the heart of Laos' coffee industry, producing the lion's share of the national crop, most of which is exported. Coffee is one of the country's most important revenue sources. According to the Lao Coffee Association, exports of 30,000 tons generated about $72 million for the country in 2013.
Coffee cradle —
The Bolaven Plateau is the heart of Laos' coffee industry, producing the lion's share of the national crop, most of which is exported. Coffee is one of the country's most important revenue sources. According to the Lao Coffee Association, exports of 30,000 tons generated about $72 million for the country in 2013.
Daniel Allen Photography
Many workers on the Bolaven coffee plantations are members of the Laven tribe. It was the Laven people, whose ancestors were part of the great Khmer empire that flourished from the ninth to the thirteenth centuries, who gave the Bolaven its name -- which means "home of the Laven" in Lao.
"Home of the Laven" —
Many workers on the Bolaven coffee plantations are members of the Laven tribe. It was the Laven people, whose ancestors were part of the great Khmer empire that flourished from the ninth to the thirteenth centuries, who gave the Bolaven its name -- which means "home of the Laven" in Lao.
Daniel Allen Photography
The plateau's climate and fertile soil means agriculture is the main industry here, followed by a burgeoning eco-tourism sector. Besides coffee, local crops include tea, rubber, pineapples and bananas. Roadside markets generally offer a wide selection of fruits.
Other yields —
The plateau's climate and fertile soil means agriculture is the main industry here, followed by a burgeoning eco-tourism sector. Besides coffee, local crops include tea, rubber, pineapples and bananas. Roadside markets generally offer a wide selection of fruits.
Daniel Allen Photography
Located on the road from Pakse to Tad Lo waterfall, the small village of Ban Houay Houn is home to around 100 Katu families, many of whom are weavers. Katu textiles often feature motifs created by weaving beads into the fabric. They're typically hand-made with back strap looms operated by a female weaver sitting on the floor.
Katu weavers —
Located on the road from Pakse to Tad Lo waterfall, the small village of Ban Houay Houn is home to around 100 Katu families, many of whom are weavers. Katu textiles often feature motifs created by weaving beads into the fabric. They're typically hand-made with back strap looms operated by a female weaver sitting on the floor.
Daniel Allen Photography
Coffee plantations on the Bolaven Plateau range from garden-sized plots to huge commercial ventures. Founded in 2001, the Jhai Coffee Farmers' Cooperative helps protect small growers' rights and increase individual incomes. It's currently the only organization owned by farmers in Laos. It also offers tours that allow tourists to experience every stage of the coffee production process.
The cooperative —
Coffee plantations on the Bolaven Plateau range from garden-sized plots to huge commercial ventures. Founded in 2001, the Jhai Coffee Farmers' Cooperative helps protect small growers' rights and increase individual incomes. It's currently the only organization owned by farmers in Laos. It also offers tours that allow tourists to experience every stage of the coffee production process.
Daniel Allen Photography
Today, Laos produces between 20,000 to 25,000 tons of coffee per year, of which just under half is Arabica, and the rest Robusta. While Robusta is easier to grow, Arabica beans yield better-tasting coffee. Arabica is generally used for espresso and quality coffee blends, and Robusta for instant coffee as well as the typical Lao coffee made with sweet condensed milk. It's certainly an acquired taste, but for many, it makes the perfect complement to an early-morning Laotian baguette.
Caffeine kick —
Today, Laos produces between 20,000 to 25,000 tons of coffee per year, of which just under half is Arabica, and the rest Robusta. While Robusta is easier to grow, Arabica beans yield better-tasting coffee. Arabica is generally used for espresso and quality coffee blends, and Robusta for instant coffee as well as the typical Lao coffee made with sweet condensed milk. It's certainly an acquired taste, but for many, it makes the perfect complement to an early-morning Laotian baguette.
Daniel Allen Photography
The small city of Pakse lies on the Mekong River in southern Laos. As the gateway to the Bolaven Plateau, it has a wide range of accommodation. One of Pakse's most important Buddhist temples, Wat Luang, stands beside the Sedone River, just before it merges with the Mekong. It hosts a monastic school and features some of the most intricate interiors in southern Laos.
The gateway —
The small city of Pakse lies on the Mekong River in southern Laos. As the gateway to the Bolaven Plateau, it has a wide range of accommodation. One of Pakse's most important Buddhist temples, Wat Luang, stands beside the Sedone River, just before it merges with the Mekong. It hosts a monastic school and features some of the most intricate interiors in southern Laos.
Daniel Allen Photography
In the past, many travelers in Laos would skip the Bolaven Plateau en route to the Si Phan Don region and Cambodia to the south, or Vientiane to the north. Today, a growing number are choosing to explore the region's awe-inspiring scenery, fascinating culture and great coffee.
Hitting the road —
In the past, many travelers in Laos would skip the Bolaven Plateau en route to the Si Phan Don region and Cambodia to the south, or Vientiane to the north. Today, a growing number are choosing to explore the region's awe-inspiring scenery, fascinating culture and great coffee.
Daniel Allen Photography
Laos' Bolaven Plateau: A coffee lover's dream

Story highlights

The Bolaven Plateau is a coffee grower's utopia

It's endowed with a temperate climate, regular rainfall and high soil fertility

The local waterfalls are more spectacular between July and October

CNN  — 

From Colombia to Kenya, many of the world’s coffee-growing regions are amongst the most idyllic places on Earth.

A bucolic tableland in southern Laos, the Bolaven Plateau is no exception.

It sits on the bottom of a crater from a giant, extinct volcano in the northeast of Champasak Province in southwestern Laos.

Close to the Thai, Cambodian and Vietnamese borders, with an altitude of 1,000 to 1,300 meters, the area has a relatively cool climate and high rainfall.

The plateau is also the source of several major rivers and home to some incredibly scenic waterfalls.

It’s earned a burgeoning reputation not only for the quality of the coffee beans the area produces, but also for its stunning scenery and vibrant ethnic cultures – making the plateau one of the best road trip destinations in Southeast Asia.

Endowed with a temperate climate, regular rainfall and high soil fertility, the Bolaven Plateau is a coffee grower’s utopia.

The French, looking for a way to make this corner of their empire profitable, first introduced coffee here from Vietnam in the early 20th century.

Today, despite the ravages of war and economic deprivation throughout Laos, the Bolaven landscape is still covered with plantations.

Even those who have no interest in coffee will revel in the plateau’s verdant jungles, plunging waterfalls and pristine mountain backdrops.

Photos of Vientiane, Laos, from half a century apart

When to go

There’s no right or wrong time to visit the Bolaven Plateau.

The local waterfalls are more spectacular between July and October, which is the rainy season, whereas those visiting between October and February can observe and even participate in the local coffee harvest.

One of the best ways to get around is to rent a bicycle, scooter or motorbike in Pakse, follow a two or three-day circular itinerary, and spend the nights in local guesthouses or hotels.

Pakse-based Green Discovery Laos also offers a range of guided tours on the plateau, while Avis offers car rentals.

Bolaven.com offers information on accommodation, maps and suggested itineraries.

To learn more about coffee and tours on the plateau, visit Paksong.info.

Also in Southeast Asia:

7 of Cambodia’s best islands

10 Vietnamese dishes every visitor should try

Vietnam has a beach resort for everyone

Daniel Allen is a journalist and photographer based in London and St. Petersburg