Eritrea's capital, Asmara, has weathered colonialism and decades of war, and emerged an independent nation with one of the world's best preserved collections of Futurist and Modernist architecture.
Eritrea's capital, Asmara, has weathered colonialism and decades of war, and emerged an independent nation with one of the world's best preserved collections of Futurist and Modernist architecture.
Edward Denison
Asmara's bounty of Modernist buildings is due in part to the influence of Italian architects, who took a 1913 city plan and created a Futurist playground during the 1930s.
Asmara's bounty of Modernist buildings is due in part to the influence of Italian architects, who took a 1913 city plan and created a Futurist playground during the 1930s.
Edward Denison
Futurism, which held up modern technology and rejected the past, was a concept created in the beginning of the twentieth century, but later fell out of favor with Italy's fascist government. As a result, some architects could experiment with Futurist ideas only on the fringes of the Italian colonial project.
Futurism, which held up modern technology and rejected the past, was a concept created in the beginning of the twentieth century, but later fell out of favor with Italy's fascist government. As a result, some architects could experiment with Futurist ideas only on the fringes of the Italian colonial project.
Edward Denison
Though some cities have sections that have been given over to Modernist architecture, Asmara is rare in that it has been designed in its entirety as a Modernist creation.
Though some cities have sections that have been given over to Modernist architecture, Asmara is rare in that it has been designed in its entirety as a Modernist creation.
Edward Denison
The most famous building in the city is the Fiat Tagliero, a car service station. Its shape is evocative of an airplane -- a typical Futurist motif. Though not in current use, the building is in good working order after having been renovated in the early 2000s.
The most famous building in the city is the Fiat Tagliero, a car service station. Its shape is evocative of an airplane -- a typical Futurist motif. Though not in current use, the building is in good working order after having been renovated in the early 2000s.
Edward Denison
A "uniquely protracted" post-colonial situation prevented Eritreans from resenting their colonial heritage, argues Edward Dension, a lecturer at the Bartlett School of Art. He suggests that this is due in part to the war between Eritrea and Ethiopia.
A "uniquely protracted" post-colonial situation prevented Eritreans from resenting their colonial heritage, argues Edward Dension, a lecturer at the Bartlett School of Art. He suggests that this is due in part to the war between Eritrea and Ethiopia.
Edward Denison
Today Eritreans are proud of their Modernist heritage, and Dension, working under Medhanie Teklemariam at the Asmara Heritage Project, is bidding for the city to become the nation's first UNESCO World Heritage site.
Today Eritreans are proud of their Modernist heritage, and Dension, working under Medhanie Teklemariam at the Asmara Heritage Project, is bidding for the city to become the nation's first UNESCO World Heritage site.
Edward Denison
The heritage movement started in 1996 in an unlikely way: through ex-prison inmates who petitioned against the demolition of their onetime detention center, Caserma Mussolini.
The heritage movement started in 1996 in an unlikely way: through ex-prison inmates who petitioned against the demolition of their onetime detention center, Caserma Mussolini.
Edward Denison
In 2001 the Cultural Assets Rehabilitation Project was instigated. Funded by the World Bank, it began documenting the city's rich heritage, unknown to most of the world due to Eritrea's turbulent and secluded past.
In 2001 the Cultural Assets Rehabilitation Project was instigated. Funded by the World Bank, it began documenting the city's rich heritage, unknown to most of the world due to Eritrea's turbulent and secluded past.
Edward Denison
The initiative was succeeded by the Asmara Heritage Project, which submitted it's application to UNESCO on February 1. It will be 18 months before the team behind the bid finds out if they were successful.
The initiative was succeeded by the Asmara Heritage Project, which submitted it's application to UNESCO on February 1. It will be 18 months before the team behind the bid finds out if they were successful.
Edward Denison
"Africa is underrepresented on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and also in Modernist history," Dension argues, suggesting that "Asmara's bid is just one of many that will increasingly try to redress this imbalance."
"Africa is underrepresented on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and also in Modernist history," Dension argues, suggesting that "Asmara's bid is just one of many that will increasingly try to redress this imbalance."
Edward Denison
Eritrea's Modernist playground

Story highlights

Eritrea's capital Asmara is home to one of the world's best collections of futurist architecture.

The is bidding to become the nation's first UNESCO World Heritage site.

CNN  — 

Once a sleepy corner of the Italian Empire, Eritrea’s capital Asmara is home to one of the world’s best collections of futurist architecture. Now, the city is bidding to become the nation’s first UNESCO World Heritage site.

Asmara certainly deserves the distinction; its architecture – built in the modern era and informed by the school of futurism – is some of the most beautifully preserved in the world. And the city owes it all to Fascism.

A Futurist haven

Italy developed an urban plan for the capital of its colony as early as 1913, though it was under Mussolini’s fascist government that modern architects built the city into what it is today, earning it the nickname “La Piccola Roma.”

“There was a very intense period of architectural development from 1935-1941,” notes Edward Dension, a lecturer at the Bartlett School of Architecture (UCL).

Everything from cinemas to cafes to prisons were constructed in rapid succession, an entire city popping up inland from the Red Sea. Little was left untouched my modernist hands – the Fiat Tagliero, Asmara’s most iconic construct, is on paper one of its most mundane: a service station.

The Impero cinema.
The Impero cinema.
Edward Denison

“It’s that combination of urban planning and modernist architecture that makes Asmara so interesting,” Dension argues, “because it was a whole city, not part of a city, like Casablanca, or Tel Aviv.” As for why, he is uncertain.

“Were [the architects] there to champion fascism, or colonialism, or were they there to run away from it and just get on with what they liked to do, which was design buildings? We still don’t know enough about that, but I suspect it’s the latter.”

“By the 1930s [futurism] fell out of favor with the fascist government of Italy,” he explains. “And so one thinks, those who espoused futurism and wanted to articulate it in architectural form, could do so only in the colonies.”

What’s independence got to do with it?

Designed by Italian architect Rinaldo Olivier, La Pyramide was celebrated as one of the Ivory Coast's most impressive structures at the time of its completion.<br /> "It was meant to recreate the liveliness of the traditional Ivorian marketplace, consciously (designed) in contrast to the sterile modern architecture that preceded it at this time," says Herz. Sadly, he notes, those aspirations never came to pass.<br />"Economically, it was never viable, and it's now gutted," he says.
La Pyramide (Abidjan, Ivory Coast) —
Designed by Italian architect Rinaldo Olivier, La Pyramide was celebrated as one of the Ivory Coast's most impressive structures at the time of its completion.
"It was meant to recreate the liveliness of the traditional Ivorian marketplace, consciously (designed) in contrast to the sterile modern architecture that preceded it at this time," says Herz. Sadly, he notes, those aspirations never came to pass.
"Economically, it was never viable, and it's now gutted," he says.
Iwan Baan
The Hotel Ivoire was built in three stages between 1961 and 1970 at the behest of President Felix Houphouet-Boigny. Herz sees the building as "the alter-ego of the country."<br />When the hotel was first built, it was done with the aspiration of attracting rich businessmen and glamor tourists. When the country experienced political upheaval in the late 1990s, it became a headquarters for the militia. In 2004, following mounting tensions with France, the hotel was the location where a disputed number of Ivorians were shot by the French army. Now, says Herz, the hotel has reopened and is returning to its roots.<br />"It has again become a glam hotel, and has almost followed the development of the country," he says.
Hotel Ivoire (Abidjan, Ivory Coast) —
The Hotel Ivoire was built in three stages between 1961 and 1970 at the behest of President Felix Houphouet-Boigny. Herz sees the building as "the alter-ego of the country."
When the hotel was first built, it was done with the aspiration of attracting rich businessmen and glamor tourists. When the country experienced political upheaval in the late 1990s, it became a headquarters for the militia. In 2004, following mounting tensions with France, the hotel was the location where a disputed number of Ivorians were shot by the French army. Now, says Herz, the hotel has reopened and is returning to its roots.
"It has again become a glam hotel, and has almost followed the development of the country," he says.
Iwan Baan
In many ways, Senegal is one of the continent's greatest success stories, and that its post-colonial structures, like the Hotel Independence, are still in operation, attests to this. <br />Herz says that one motivator of the exhibit was to focus on a side of Africa that he feels, is sorely underrepresented in the media.<br />"Almost every reportage of Africa is about misery, violence, crime, always with a negative connotation. Africa is never distinguished between its 54 countries, but seen as this gray mass of lack. The idea here is to shift the discourse and show an incredible wealth of cultural production," he says.
Hotel Independence (Dakar, Senegal) —
In many ways, Senegal is one of the continent's greatest success stories, and that its post-colonial structures, like the Hotel Independence, are still in operation, attests to this.
Herz says that one motivator of the exhibit was to focus on a side of Africa that he feels, is sorely underrepresented in the media.
"Almost every reportage of Africa is about misery, violence, crime, always with a negative connotation. Africa is never distinguished between its 54 countries, but seen as this gray mass of lack. The idea here is to shift the discourse and show an incredible wealth of cultural production," he says.
Iwan Baan
In 1973 -- the same year the Kenyatta International Conference Center (KICC for short) was opened -- it became a major international player in the world of finance. The IMF and World Bank hosted a conference at KICC, significantly elevating the status not just of the structure, but the newly independent country.<br />"It turned a building that was of national importance into one of international importance," says Herz. "It put Kenya on the map, and since it has become one of the most recognized buildings in Nairobi, and a symbol of Kenya's independence."
Kenyatta International Conference Center (Nairobi, Kenya) —
In 1973 -- the same year the Kenyatta International Conference Center (KICC for short) was opened -- it became a major international player in the world of finance. The IMF and World Bank hosted a conference at KICC, significantly elevating the status not just of the structure, but the newly independent country.
"It turned a building that was of national importance into one of international importance," says Herz. "It put Kenya on the map, and since it has become one of the most recognized buildings in Nairobi, and a symbol of Kenya's independence."
Iwan Baan
Herz notes that though many of the newly independent countries called in foreign architects to develop the new, post-colonial skyline, there is a separate national identity visible in the thumbprint of each structure. <br />This is particularly true of Senegal, he notes, where the country's first president, Leopold Sedar Senghor, was a poet, and put a large emphasis on the arts. The Foire Internationale de Dakar, or FIDAK, for instance, came about during this period.
FIDAK (Dakar, Senegal) —
Herz notes that though many of the newly independent countries called in foreign architects to develop the new, post-colonial skyline, there is a separate national identity visible in the thumbprint of each structure.
This is particularly true of Senegal, he notes, where the country's first president, Leopold Sedar Senghor, was a poet, and put a large emphasis on the arts. The Foire Internationale de Dakar, or FIDAK, for instance, came about during this period.
Iwan Baan
Designed by the Public Works Department, Independence Arch was built to put Ghana on the world stage.<br />"These countries were developing a new national identity. There was a clear interest for the young nation in gaining this eye-level perspective, to be amongst the league of nations," he says.
Independence Arch (Accra, Ghana) —
Designed by the Public Works Department, Independence Arch was built to put Ghana on the world stage.
"These countries were developing a new national identity. There was a clear interest for the young nation in gaining this eye-level perspective, to be amongst the league of nations," he says.
Manuel Herz
Just as the Hotel Ivoire became a symbol for the political realities of the Ivory Coast, the University of Zambia has proven a similar representation for Zambia's alliances, notes Herz. Zambia called on an Israeli construction company to build the university.<br />"The late Sixties were a honeymoon period between Israel and Africa. Israel was seen as a friend because it had also lived through colonialism and gotten rid of its colonial power," he explains. By the Seventies, tensions within Israel had soured the relationship, and the construction company was thrown out. <br />"They took all the plans with them, and there are still parts of the university that aren't complete," he says.
University of Zambia (Lusaka, Zambia) —
Just as the Hotel Ivoire became a symbol for the political realities of the Ivory Coast, the University of Zambia has proven a similar representation for Zambia's alliances, notes Herz. Zambia called on an Israeli construction company to build the university.
"The late Sixties were a honeymoon period between Israel and Africa. Israel was seen as a friend because it had also lived through colonialism and gotten rid of its colonial power," he explains. By the Seventies, tensions within Israel had soured the relationship, and the construction company was thrown out.
"They took all the plans with them, and there are still parts of the university that aren't complete," he says.
Iwan Baan
For Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana's first president, education was a priority, says Herz.<br />"Nkrumah was singularly pushing this issue, so we see the construction of a tremendous amount of schools and universities at this time," he notes, all of which have what was then a heightened, modernist aesthetic. <br />"The KNUST campus really represent a purity of modern architecture," he adds.
School of Engineering at KNUST (Kumasi, Ghana) —
For Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana's first president, education was a priority, says Herz.
"Nkrumah was singularly pushing this issue, so we see the construction of a tremendous amount of schools and universities at this time," he notes, all of which have what was then a heightened, modernist aesthetic.
"The KNUST campus really represent a purity of modern architecture," he adds.
Alexia Webster
Completed one year after independence, the Mfantsipim School was actually commissioned in the preceding years. This, explains Merz, demonstrates that the concept of independence is in fact somewhat fluid, born in the years leading up to its realization.<br />"It shows there's not always a red line, a kind of hour zero," he says. "What architecture allows is an assessment of this process of independence. It allows us to see the gray tones in what we initially always thought was a black and white situation."
Mfantsipim School (Cape Coast, Ghana) —
Completed one year after independence, the Mfantsipim School was actually commissioned in the preceding years. This, explains Merz, demonstrates that the concept of independence is in fact somewhat fluid, born in the years leading up to its realization.
"It shows there's not always a red line, a kind of hour zero," he says. "What architecture allows is an assessment of this process of independence. It allows us to see the gray tones in what we initially always thought was a black and white situation."
Manuel Herz
Africa's amazing architecture: Do these buildings represent freedom?

Italy’s loss was Eritrea’s gain, but in the years since it has been an uneasy road for the East Africa nation. From Italian colony to British administration to Ethiopian federation, the “process from colonialism to independence was uniquely protracted” for Eritrea, says Dension. And it is arguably why Asmara is in such good condition.

Dension suggests that Eritreans “probably view their colonial architecture a lot differently than say Libya does with Tripoli, or Somalia does with Mogadishu, where some of the colonial buildings were deliberately destroyed, or disregarded… which a newly-independent country would want to do away with.” Because of the lengthy path to independence, “those strong feelings against the colonial ruler were perhaps not quite so strong when independence arrived.”

Proud heritage

Eritreans today maintain a close relationship with their modernist heritage, spurred on by an unlikely source: ex-prison inmates.

Caserma Mussolini, an ex-detention center-turnerd-Bank of Erirea.
Caserma Mussolini, an ex-detention center-turnerd-Bank of Erirea.
Edward Denison

Caserma Mussolini, a military barracks that served as a detention center during colonial rule, was due to be razed in 1996 and replaced with a German-designed high-rise.

“It was the former inmates of that prison that said ‘You can’t destroy this building, it’s part of our heritage’,” Dension explains. “It was the inmates who really started focusing Eritrean minds, and started them thinking ‘What do these buildings actually mean to us?’”

A World Bank-funded project, the Cultural Assets Rehabilitation Project, ran between 2001 and 2007 and started preservation work, an initiative continued by the Asmara Heritage Project (AHP), established in 2014.

Rescuing Angola's stunning historic cinemas

Dension has played a part in both teams, the latter under coordinator Medhanie Teklemariam, and says that on February 1 the AHP submitted Asmara for consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage site – what would be a first for Eritrea.

“Africa is underrepresented on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and also in modernist history,” he argues.

“Our understanding of modernism is very much framed by a Western-centric, Euro-centric perspective. It does reveal a problem in the way that we understand Modernism and the way we understand colonial history. Asmara’s bid is just one of many that will increasingly try to redress this imbalance.”