Got your flats? Topped up the credit card? Got a handful of euros for gelato and a slice?
That’s all you need for a tour of the fashion center of the fashion capital of Italy and the world. Well, that and our handy guide.
Milan’s “fashion quadrangle” is one of the world’s top shopping districts, sparkling with glossy boutiques, squeaking with luxury designer brands. Brands scream for attention, often with outrageous displays or perplexing marketing campaigns.
“You must be stupid,” Renzo Rosso, the billionaire founder of Diesel jeans, tells CNN Travel, referring to the need to take risks to succeed.
He “invented” ripped denim at the age of 15, he says. “I still don’t know why but I did something stupid: the cloth was stiff so I started rubbing the jeans on the cement of my barnyard. My jeans had a great success.”
Now he has a store on one of the most enviable retail streets in the world, at the southern end of Via Montenapoleone.
“You must be ready to take risks and have a crazy approach. Only the stupid can be truly brilliant.”
The four main intersecting streets: Via Montenapoleone, Via Alessandro Manzoni, Corso Venezia, Via della Spiga are noisy and busy. The internal alleys are more relaxing.
“Here you can breathe the essence of Milan’s fashion universe: creative, vibrant, dynamic,” says personal shopper Annamaria Lamanna, who takes foreign clients on tours. Advisory: The price tags within may not be suitable for all viewers.
For big names: Via Montenapoleone
The top brands on Via Montenapoleone are clustered together like over-friendly neighbors. But don’t be fooled: tough-looking security agents guard entrances and there are few price tags exposed.
“It’s the quadrangle’s symbol road, loaded with identity and the biggest boutiques,” says Lamanna.
This is where the ultimate in fashion names hang out: Giorgio Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, La Perla and Gucci, to name a few. Shoppers here are invariably of the “money’s no object” classes, stepping out of one store and into the next as if they were sampling mild cheeses.
To get a price you need to ask.
Highlights: At Gucci, a woman’s “Lady Lock” crocodile tote bag costs €18,500 ($25,360) while a crocodile-skin jacket goes for €33,000 ($45,000), though they have been sold for as much as €90,000 ($123,000).
Gentlemen are luckier: they can grab a tailored suit for a measly €2,500 ($3,400).
Stylish silence: Via della Spiga
This is a favorite street for many. Despite being one of the quadrangle’s main streets, it’s silent, car-free and has a dreamy atmosphere.
Boutiques here are works of art in themselves, set in historical buildings. You can become more entranced by the decor and furniture than by the items.
“It perfectly blends tradition and fashion, the pleasure of a walk and the glam of the sexy boutiques,” says Lamanna.
The shop fronts are some of the most photographed things on this street. Elegant mannequins lie on leather couches while high-heels and clutches adorn stone gargoyles. Wooden animals, boats and leopard-skin sofas are some of the other classy objects to be seen.
It’s pure glamor.
Boutique picks include Ermanno Scervino, Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, Rocco Barocco and Byblos.
Highlights: Dolce and Gabbana’s “Bellucci” pumps, showcased inside a wicker chest, cost €795 ($1,089). Mens’ fine jumpers at Brunello Cucinelli, Italy’s “Cashmere King,” are €500 ($685).
The kids aren’t left out either. At Pinco Pallino you can get your daughter a nice white dress and gold shoes for €1,000 ($1,370).
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Smaller players: Via Sant’Andrea, Via Santo Spirito
These are the top internal alleys, away from the buzz of Via Monte Napoleone.
Via Sant’Andrea features, among others, the boutiques of Trussardi, Missoni, Jimmy Choo and Chanel, where cocktail dresses can be found for €4,300 ($5,900).
Miu Miu’s signature leather tassel and crystals biker bag is sold at a modest €1,700 ($2,330).
“Via Sant’Andrea is becoming ever more important inside the quadrangle thanks to the opening of new stores. And it’s a pleasure for the eyes,” says Lamanna.
Highlights: In Via Santo Spirito, a pair of Balenciaga sandals cost €995 ($1,360). If that’s too cheap, you can always move along to Valentino.
From the Gianvito Rossi store you can peep into the spell-binding Bagatti Valsecchi Palace.
All in one: An Armani universe
Burnt too many calories? Need a break?
Giorgio Armani is the only designer to own an entire block – appropriately in the shape of a gigantic “A” – at the heart of the fashion quadrangle. The store leads into the Armani universe: restaurants, a luxury hotel, lounge bar and club.
Highlights: You can grab a light lunch at the sleek red-and-black Armani Emporio Caffé (Via Croce Rossa 2; +39 02 6231 2680; from €10) or sample the fusion cuisine of Japanese restaurant Armani/Nobu (Via Pisoni 1; +39 02 6231 2645).
The five-star Armani Hotel (Via Manzoni 31; +39 02 8883 8888; rooms from €500 ($685)) has a rooftop spa featuring a pool with a glass ceiling overlooking the city.
Signature suites are bigger than 200 square meters and come with a personal trainer.
In front of the spa there’s Bamboo Bar (Via Marcona 6,+39 08 8395 0201) one of Milan’s coolest lounge bars. Its barman makes extravagant cocktails (from €10 ($14)), such as Blue Cheese Daiquiri using real cheese.
Close to Bamboo you’ll find the hotel restaurant. Its menu features Sicilian langoustine tartare with green apple, passion fruit and raspberry jelly (from €20 ($28)).
Other hotel picks include four-star Hotel Manzoni (Via Santo Spirito 20; +39 02 7600 5700; from €290 ($397)).
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone (Via Santo Spirito 10; +39 02 7600 1123; from €15 ($20.50)) serves amberjack carpaccio with a “Tiziano” cocktail made of Champagne and raspberries.
Silvia Marchetti is a freelance journalist and writer based in Italy.
