You can't really go wrong with either phone, but when it comes to features you'll actually notice on a day to day basis, the HTC one edges out the Galaxy S4.
It may be superficial, but just like buying a nice car, there's a certain joy to be had from quality workmanship. And if you're staunchly opposed to the Sense UI, and if know your way around technology, you can always "root" the device and run the stock Android operating system on it.