In South Africa's Eastern Cape, Xhosa men undergo an initiation, after which they must wear formal clothing for six months. <br />Knitwear designer Laduma Ngxokolo was dismayed that the formal clothes available to Xhosa men were from the West, so he created formal wear that incorporates the Xhosa aesthetic.
South African style —
In South Africa's Eastern Cape, Xhosa men undergo an initiation, after which they must wear formal clothing for six months.
Knitwear designer Laduma Ngxokolo was dismayed that the formal clothes available to Xhosa men were from the West, so he created formal wear that incorporates the Xhosa aesthetic.
Courtesy Maxhosa/Neil Roberts
Ngxokolo also uses local materials, like wool and mohair.
South African style —
Ngxokolo also uses local materials, like wool and mohair.
Courtesy Maxhosa
His clothing has already garnered international attention, winning fans far beyond the Xhosa community.
South African style —
His clothing has already garnered international attention, winning fans far beyond the Xhosa community.
Courtesy Maxhosa/Neil Roberts
He has exhibited in London, Paris, New York and Milan.
South African style —
He has exhibited in London, Paris, New York and Milan.
Courtesy Maxhosa
Ngxokolo hails from the Eastern Cape -- the birthplace of Nelson Mandela. Mandela was himself a Xhosa chief.
South African style —
Ngxokolo hails from the Eastern Cape -- the birthplace of Nelson Mandela. Mandela was himself a Xhosa chief.
Carl de Souza/AFP/Getty Images
For the initiation, Xhosa boys don traditional outfits and paint their faces in clay before they are circumcised by a traditional healer.
South African style —
For the initiation, Xhosa boys don traditional outfits and paint their faces in clay before they are circumcised by a traditional healer.
ALEXANDER JOE/AFP/Getty Images
Ngxokolo (center) is a staple at international fashion weeks. He showcased his work at Labo Ethnik Fashion Week in Paris.
South African style —
Ngxokolo (center) is a staple at international fashion weeks. He showcased his work at Labo Ethnik Fashion Week in Paris.
Courtesy Maxhosa/SDR Photo
"I would prefer to celebrate what I have here before going abroad and celebrating things that are out there," he says.
South African style —
"I would prefer to celebrate what I have here before going abroad and celebrating things that are out there," he says.
Courtesy Maxhosa
Although inspired to create formal wear for Xhosa men, Ngxokolo also designs women's wear.
South African style —
Although inspired to create formal wear for Xhosa men, Ngxokolo also designs women's wear.
Courtesy Maxhosa/SDR Photo
Chunky knitwear, tasteful v-necks: South African tribe gets a style makeover

Every week, Inside Africa takes its viewers on a journey across Africa, exploring the true diversity and depth of different cultures, countries and regions.

Story highlights

In South Africa, Xhosa boys undergo an initiation when entering manhood

After a month-long process, the men swap traditional clothes for formal attire

Designer Laduma Ngxokolo makes clothes that match the Xhosa aesthetic

Eastern Cape, South Africa CNN  — 

The journey from boyhood to manhood is a poignant time in any community. This goes double for the Xhosa men that live in South Africa’s Eastern Cape. Males between the ages of 18 and 20 undergo an initiation, whereby the don traditional robes and paint their faces in clay before they are circumcised by traditional healers.

“We have to go through an initiation process, where we have to go to the initiation school for about a month, and learn about manhood protocol and learn about our culture as well,” explains Laduma Ngxokolo, a leading knitwear designer, and himself a Xhosa man from the Eastern Cape.

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But for six months after initiation, as a symbol of their journey, Xhosa men swap their traditional clothing for formal wear – typically tweed jackets, khaki trousers and checked caps – all distinctly Western in their origins.

“For me, that’s awkward because we are practicing a traditional culture and yet wearing clothes which are Western,” Ngxokolo says. Spotting an opportunity, Ngxokolo decided to create menswear that incorporated more local designs and materials through his label MaXhosa.

“I decided to come up with something that would speak a language of the Xhosa, and actually use some of the aesthetics which is well known among Xhosa.” He uses patterns inspired by Xhosa bead work, and uses wool and mohair available in the Eastern Cape. It’s a look that has resonated, not just at home, but in the global fashion community as well. Last year, he exhibited at Labo Ethnik Fashion Week in Paris.

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But even as his popularity grows overseas, he remains proudly South African. “There are a lot of products coming into the country that don’t support the economy and which don’t resemble any of the heritage and culture around us,” he explains.

“I would prefer to celebrate what I have here before going abroad and celebrating things that are out there.”

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